Wine Tasting:
Fünf German Riesling

Winery: Schmitt Sohne
Brand/Type: Riesling
Vintage: N/A
Country: Germany
Region: N/A
Alcohol content: 9%
Closure: Screw cap
Appearance: Pale straw
Aroma/Bouquet: Green Apple, solvent

I love a good Riesling. In fact I would have to say that Riesling is my favorite type of wine. Good Rieslings can be had fairly cheap (really good ones cost a bit more). The 2005 harvest has recently hit the US market and my favorite wine store has cases of new wine stacked in the aisles and many of them are bargain priced. In the midst of these new offerings was something named Funf. “German Riesling” the label states. Isn’t that almost redundant? Like French Champagne? I bought it despite a little German accented voice in my head warning me otherwise.

From the Schmitt Sonne press release:

Fünf, a light and easy to drink German Riesling, will sell at price points from $5.99 to $6.99 (750 ml) at retailers nationwide. The name, which translated from German means “five”, is designed to promote Fünf as the perfect drink when the “fun begins at 5.” The frosted white bottle features cobalt blue accents, a large numeral 5 behind the logo, and a German umlaut over the U in the name, which is a subtle representation of a smiling face.

Well I had obtained my bottle before I read the press release. Had I read it first I would have listened to my gut instinct and left it on the shelf. I’m of Swiss-German descent. My grandfather Weinzapf was a Swiss immigrant who came from a 2000 year old tradition of wine making, selling and of course drinking.

My grandmother however was 100% German. She was a gentle and kind lady who sipped her share of wine. I do however think that after tasting Funf that she would spit it out and declare it to be “scheisse!” Grandpa would not be pleased with Funf either.

The bottle does look a bit like a cheap version of an Arbor Mist offering. Not that Arbor Mist is exactly a fine wine either but when you share the looks of a distinctly low-end wine you probably share more than looks alone.

The obvious “corporate speak” marketing pitch on the bottle doesn’t bode well either;

“After work, during dinner, on the town. With a special someone or lots of friends. Open a bottle and add a little FunF to your life.”

Don’t do this to friends or someone special. Not unless “someone special” is someone you hate and want to inflict pain upon.

So by now you must be asking, “How does it taste?” I’ll elaborate on the speculated opinion of my Grandmother: It has a green apple and honeydew flavor that only slightly teases you with those samples of flavor. It quickly turns to a sickly sweet and grapefruit-ish palate. It then descends to a bitter-sour finish. It has a syrupy consistency that I’ve heard some people complain about when they say they don’t like Rieslings. There is no mineral, no acidity, nothing to balance any of the sweet and syrupy taste. I did find the bitter element somewhat disturbing. Disturbing like an East German propaganda film. Even Leni Riefenstahl films had nicer endings than this did.

This is one wine to avoid. If you are new to wine and have never tried a Riesling, do not try this one. Funf is not something I would recommend to anyone.

Wine Tasting:
2004 Hans von Wilhelm Riesling

Winery: Hans von Wilhelm
Brand/Type: Spätlese Riesling
Vintage: 2004
Country: Germany
Region: Mosel - Saar - Rüwer (Piesporter Michelsberg)
Alcohol content: 8.5%
Closure: Natural Cork
Appearance: Pale dishwater blonde
Aroma/Bouquet: Green Apple

Very nice, bold and fruity, sweet-tart flavors of green apple. Not the most complex but far from simple. This is a very affordable German import that is typical of most Spätlese Rieslings. Enjoy it with a meal (goes well with Thanksgiving turkey) or as an apertif.

Wine Tasting:
2002 Hogue Chenin Blanc

Winery: Hogue
Brand/Type: Chenin Blanc
Vintage: 2002
Country: USA
Region: Columbia Valley, Washington
Alcohol content: 13.2%
Closure: Synthetic
Appearance: Light golden straw
Aroma/Bouquet: Honeydew

Fruity but not sweet, this is a dry to off-dry wine. It has a sharp and crisp finish. This is a nice “safe” wine you can serve and not have to worry about guests that don’t like sweet or don’t like dry. While it’s a dry white it doesn’t have the overly dry taste that some Chardonnay’s have and has enough fruity character to satisfy (trick) the palate of someone who normally prefer a sweeter wine.

This is one of Hogue’s low-end wines. It’s by no means a lowly wine. It has plenty of character and is a great value. Priced like a table wine, tastes much better.

Note: Hogue now produces their wines with screwcaps.

Wine Tasting:
Badger Mountain 2005 Organic Riesling

Winery: Badger Mountain
Brand/Type: Riesling, Organic, NSA (No Sulfites Added)
Vintage: 2005
Country: USA
Region: Columbia Valley, Washington
Alcohol content: 12%
Closure: Screwcap
Appearance: Light straw
Aroma/Bouquet: Melon, apricot, and tangerine

This Kabinett style Riesling is one of the best west coast Rieslings around. It’s dry to slightly off-dry (2004 was off-dry) and nicely complex. It delivers a sweet-tart melon/green apple taste then bounces to a tangerine-citrus sensation and leaves with a distinct but pleasant (and very even) mineral finish. It’s not syrupy like some Rieslings but very crisp and mature.

Badger Mountain uses 100% certified organic grapes for this NSA (No Sulfites Added) Riesling. In fact all of Badger Mountain’s wines are certified organic and many are without added sulfites. This is fantastic choice for anyone who suffers from a sulfite allergy. All wines contain sulfites, they’re a naturally occurring part of the fermentation process, but only a few vintners go out of their way to avoid adding them. Badger Mountain proves that you don’t really need to add them to make an excellent wine.

This year Badger Mountain has also moved to screw caps. This is a good thing. We’re happy to see more wineries moving to this closure. Cork is for snobs and Luddites. Maybe you can eBay your Campagnolo corkscrew if enough wineries abandon corks altogether? Then you could afford a case or two of Badger Mountain Organic Riesling!

Wine Tasting:
2004 Bonny Doon Pacific Rim Dry Riesling

Winery: Bonny Doon
Brand/Type: Riesling
Vintage: 2004
Country: USA
Region: California (not really - see text)
Alcohol content: 12%
Closure: Screwcap
Appearance: Extremely Pale Dishwater Blonde
Aroma/Bouquet: Melon and tangerine

First things first; Bonny Doon is a California winery. However this vintage is made from grapes (according to the bottle) harvested from eastern Washington and the Middle Mosel. So it’s a mix of American and German grapes. Hmm, as Colonel Klink would say, “Interesting, very interesting.” (If you don’t know who Colonel Klink is try Yahoo ok?)

So how does it taste? Like a Pinot Grigio. This is the driest Riesling I’ve ever tasted. The bouquet and aroma hint of a Riesling, but it is far too light and watery and has a noticeable, but not overbearing, oak finish. It doesn’t have the complexity of a Riesling either.

We’ve seen this wine hyped and so we were excited to try it. Unfortunately we’re not excited anymore. Like so many wines, especially California wines, the bottle had more character than the wine; fancy label, so-so wine. Bonny Doon also has a rather annoying website. It is entirely Flash based and spends more time distracting you than informing you about their wine. “Understated” is seemingly not a Bonny Doon trait.

Wine Tasting:
2004 Chateau Grand Traverse Semi-Dry Riesling

Winery: Chateau Grand Traverse
Brand/Type: Semi-Dry Riesling
Vintage: 2005
Country: USA
Region: Grand Traverse Peninsula, Michigan
Alcohol content: 12%
Closure: Natural Cork
Appearance: Pale blonde
Aroma/Bouquet: Lemony citrus and melon

This is an excellent Riesling that compares well against any German Kabinett. The label says “Semi-Dry” but off dry is more accurate (at least for this bottle).

Very smooth on the palate, it is even with a complex fruit flavor that includes tangerine, orange, melon, apricot, and is well balanced with a mineral presence. It is consistent and crisp from the tip of the tongue to the finish. This is probably one of the more complex tasting Rieslings you will find anywhere.

Chateau Grand Traverse is well represented in most of the upper-Midwest. You can find this as well as other wines of theirs in most Meijer stores. Thankfully Meijer stocks regional wines and supports smaller brands. If you are in Ohio the Andersons also stocks this.

One note on the down side… the cork was overly dry. We’ve noticed this before with other bottles from Chateau Grand Traverse. This may be from improper storage at the retailer (most likely). Regardless of how, we would recommend that drink this brand soon. Frankly, with something this good, it’s too tempting not to drink right away!

Wine Tasting:
2004 Chateau Grand Traverse Johannisberg Late Harvest Riesling

Winery: Chateau Grand Traverse
Brand/Type: Johannisberg Riesling
Vintage: 2004
Country: USA
Region: Grand Traverse Peninsula, Michigan
Alcohol content: 10.5%
Closure: Natural Cork
Appearance: Light blonde
Aroma/Bouquet: Apricot and melon

Off dry, lightly sweet, somewhere between a Kabinett and a Spatlese. Very nice fruitiness with a tart finish. A nice mineral edge.

Another excellent Michigan Riesling. Similar to many German offerings but with a higher alcohol content but not in a bad way; just a bit bolder than the traditional German Riesling.

Wine Tasting:
Blackstone 2001 California Merlot

Winery: Blackstone
Brand/Type: Merlot
Vintage: 2001
Country: USA
Region: California
Alcohol content: 13%
Closure: Synthetic cork
Appearance: Dark, inky, ruby red
Aroma/Bouquet: Pungent blackberries, noticable alcohol odor

Noticeable wood and spice flavors. Smooth, dry with a crisp spicy finish. Has a slight vinegar aftertaste.

Blackstone is a fairly popular/common brand name. Not sure why they feel it important to note that this is a “California” Merlot. According to the Blackstone website, this is actually a blend.

An average Merlot. As an alternative you could buy three bottles of Charles Shaw, have a better experience, have money left for gas, and do yourself no harm.

Wine Tasting:
Franz Reh & Son 2002 Pinot Grigio

Winery: Franz Reh & Son
Brand/Type: Pinot Grigio
Vintage: 2002
Country: Germany
Region: Pfalz
Alcohol content: 12.5%
Closure: Synthetic Cork
Appearance: Pale gold
Aroma/Bouquet: Lemon, pine

Dry, slight bit of oak, strong sharp finish with a hint of pear at the end.

An affordable wine that is very respectable. This is a fairly simple wine without much complexity but you can do far worse with other high priced pinot grigios. If you find this buy it. You’ll do no harm to your palate or pocketbook.

Wine Tasting:
2003 Bonny Doon Madiran Heart of Darkness

Winery: Bonny Doon
Brand/Type: Madiran
Vintage: 2003
Country: USA
Region: California
Alcohol content: 13.5
Closure: Synthethic Cork
Appearance: Dark Ruby/Garnet
Aroma/Bouquet: Blackberries, mmm, nice, rich, ripe blackberries!

Complex, heavy on the tongue, sharp finish.

Just in time for Halloween! Don’t let the Ralph Steadman label scare you! This is a robust and complex wine that begs to be savored slowly. If you let it out and allow the spirit to breathe, you’ll be rewarded by a soulful glass that won’t haunt you. Ok, Edgar Allen Poe we aren’t. Enough Halloween euphemisms already!

The longer I savored this, the more it reminded me of a Brunello. Not as dry, but that can be a positive with some Brunellos. Not as expensive either, so that would be a definite treat.

Bonny Doon isn’t afraid of pushing their limits or taking risks. This wine shouldn’t scare you either!




  •    Top Food & Drink Blogs